Revealing the organic dye and mordant composition of Paracas textiles by a combined analytical approach

The object of this study is a wide selection of dyed cotton and camelid samples from an important collection of 2000-year-old Paracas textiles, now at the Museo Nacional de Arqueología, Antropología e Historia del Perú (MNAAHP; Lima; Peru) and at the National Museum of World Culture (NMWC; Gothenburg; Sweden). The threads, chosen as representative of the whole palette, were selected from eighteen different textiles. A combined spectroscopic and spectrometric analytical approach was selected to characterize the organic and inorganic composition of this wide set of samples. In particular, technical photography was used to gain a general overview of the samples, X-ray fluorescence (XRF) was employed for identifying the mordants and mapping the elemental distribution in the threads, while liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and with high-resolution mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD, HPLC–HRMS) were used for characterizing organic dye composition. This study provides fundamental information on the mordants or other inorganic auxiliaries used in the dyeing processes, rarely investigated up to now, and to the varieties of vegetal sources employed in Paracas textiles. The widening of the Andean dyestuff database is highly important not only to acquire knowledge on Paracas culture, but also to ease the dye characterization of archaeological textiles from the Peruvian region and South American area in general.